July 3, 2006,
Hi from Tapestry,
Last evening we stopped on the Island of Paros, where we anchored in a wide
bay. Boats of all sizes were anchored around us and several beaches lined the
shore. Hillsides were rugged and rocky; It was beautiful as it shimmered in the
summer heat. A few minutes later an empty dinghy, complete with outboard motor,
came floating by. We launched our dinghy and retrieved it before it floated
out to sea.. We found its owner, an Australian couple on a charter boat. They
hadn't even noticed it was gone.
Early in the afternoon we took a ferry to the town of Naousa. We could see
it in the distance from the boat. It looked like a collection of tiny white
boxes plied on the shore. When we got there, we found it to be quite special.
All the buildings are rectangular and cconcrete. They are all painted bright
white. They tend to have blue shutters. Paving stones in the narrow roads are
gray, but the mortar is white. Clean is the impression one gets. Shops are
dark and cool on the inside. Light colored clothing and colorful accessories
are tastefully displayed in polished store windows. Streets are narrow and
walls are high; there is a kind of simple elegance here I had not seen before.
Tables set beneath sun umbrellas near the sea attracted crowds as did intimate
restaurants that looked right out on the bay. Smaller cafés and restaurants
had
tables and chairs in the shady narrow streets A stage had been built on the
waterfront for a celebration of seafood and music slated for later that evening.
Workmen were busy unloading chairs from trucks, preparing for the evening's
festivities and octopus was being strung on clotheslines to get ready for the
feast. What a neat town
Yesterday morning we rose early and set sail for Amorgos, a forty mile sail.
Sailing was good part of the way but then the wind died and huge left over waves
caught us broadside. Tapestry rolled and rolled from deck to deck. The last
six miles was, to say the least, an unsettling experience. Amorgos has a large
harbor in its center and is rich in culture and history. We were ready to rent
a car and explore the island today, but a very low barometer and a windy
forecast changed our plans. We kept an eye on our boats, anchored in the harbor
instead. Rumors of another mealtime abound. We may be here 'til the weekend.
Three villages surround the harbor. It seems like an interesting place to be.
The Greeks are gentle people, unquestionably European, but we have
found them
unhurried and very polite. There is a simple elegance of style here that is
unique and charming. Greek food, too, is delightful. They enjoy tasty pastries
sold in bakeries that are colorful, neat and clean. Mouth-watering confections
rich with chocolate cherries and cake adorn part of the glistening cases, as do
other tasty sweets dripping with honey. Today we bought a pastry filled with
leeks and another filled with sausage for lunch. For dessert there was raisin
cake. Delicious. The Greeks also love yogart and fresh fruit is always
plentiful.. Ozo seems to be the liquor of choice, but Mythos beer comes ice
cold in half liter bottles, and table wine is sold in one and a half liter
plastic bottles, like bottled water. Liquor and wine from everywhere available
as well.
One thing different about Greece is breakfast. Often if you venture into a
café at breakfast time, often you can get coffee, but nothing else. You
have to
stop by the bakery first if you want sweets or pastry.
Towns like this one are really a delight. There is regular ferry service and
tourists from other parts of Europe rent rooms here and stay for a week or two.
There are small hotels, but no resort facilities. Several beaches surround the
harbor and there are many places of historical interest nearby..
In spite of all its good features, it is not the best place to be in a
mealtime. I dove on the anchor today and it appears to be well set. We will
find out tomorrow. More later. Hank and Julie