June 1, 2006,

Hi from Tapestry,
We motored back along the southern coast of Sicily on flat seas. Early the
next morning we left Taormina and headed across the Straits of Messina toward
the Boot of Italy. Although both forecasts we got called for no wind at all,
the Strait was full of whitecaps. It was a beautiful reach of about 25 knots
and we flew along. For a change, it was wonderful sailing. Dozens of playful
little dolphins splashed in our bow wave. As soon as we reached the Italian
mainland, however, the wind swung around to the northeast and it was right on
the nose. We lowered sails and started the engine, plunging through heavy seas
the rest of the day. Often we were slowed to three knots by huge waves that
would break over the foredeck, run back by the windlass, the dorades, the
hatches and finally slosh over the windshield. It was heavy going, much like
motoring west on Lake Erie in a blow. Tapestry was really shaken up along the
way and her engine was running roughly by the time we arrived at Rochelle
Ionica. We made a fuel filter change as soon as we arrived and the engine
smoothed right out.
The marina here is interesting and unusual in several ways. It was built by
the government, but never finished. There are six hundred slips, with
facilities for yachts up to 30 m. (100 feet). There are finger piers between
slips, very unusual in Europe, There is no electricity and only a couple of
water taps on each dock. There is a restaurant on shore and it is only about 3
K, or a mile and a half, from a small town. The best part is, its free.
Because they never officially finished it, there is no charge. Maybe someday
they will hook up the power and water and charge, but not now. The Customs
officer told us that there is a five day limit, but not to worry about it. We
will stay here for a couple of days.
This morning we took a hike into town and up to the medieval castle that rises
high above the place. The town is small, little bigger than Dunkirk and has
little to offer, but lots of fresh food. Several fishermen have shops here,
with today's catch on display, and stores with fresh fruits and vegetables are
numerous. Meat markets have huge cuts of meat in their cases, and the butcher
will slice your steaks or chops while you watch.
The town, with its pharmacies, clothing shops and cafes reminds me somehow of an
American town in the '60's. Because there is no tourism in this part of Italy,
things are quite inexpensive. Julie and I had coffee and a fresh pastry today
and the bill was about E2.50, about half of what we are used to paying. Fresh,
ripe peaches were .50 per pound.
It is cool and raining this afternoon. This is not your normal six drops of
muddy water on the deck, but a real rainy afternoon. Water patters on the cabin
top and soaks under trees on shore. It is the most rain we have seen in over a
month. The weather is "unsettled," the barometer low, and we will wait
for clearing before we move on. All the best, Hank and Julie.