May 23, 2006
Hi from Tapestry,
We continued to Stromboli, which became visible from over 30 miles away.
There was no question it was a volcano. Several times an hour a puff of white
smoke would spew from a crater near the top and then a puff of black smoke would
follow from another crater nearby. The black cloud was actually bits of molten
rock that would be glowing red at night. Fortunately, Stromboli is a volcano
which vents regularly rather than builds up for a tremendous release every few
hundred years like Vesuvius and Etna. We looked forward to our night on the
Island, but as we approached we encountered the Italian coast Guard who informed
us as best they could that there was "helicopter construction" near
the anchorage and we could not go there. Sure enough a huge industrial
helicopter hovered over the area and lifted large objects and carried them to
another part of the island. It was getting late, the wind was rising from the
east, and we had to find another anchorage as the place they suggested was too
deep and too near shore for us. Isola Panarea, about ten miles to the south,
had a little cove protected from the east, and we made it there before dark. It
proved to be a pleasant spot.
On Monday the 22nd, we headed for Isola Lipari where we entered a marina.
From there we explored the museums in Lipari City, a few kilometers away. These
Aeolian Islands have been inhabited since twelve thousand years, B.C. Much of
the material in the museums was pottery from pre-historic times, including
funeral urns and crypts. There was also the most complete collection of Greek
theatrical masks in the world. The masks are miniatures, most likely found in
graves. They are spectacular in their detail; beautifully made. It seems
ironic that these people were buried in elaborate crypts to insure some kind of
immortality for themselves. Yet it is the artifacts buried with them around
which a museum has been built. It is the artifacts, not the individuals which
will be remembered.
This morning we purchased Fuel and had another shock. Rather than the 97
cents we had been told, it cost 1E 23 per liter, or about $5.84 per gallon for
diesel. Still, better than the $7.00 plus we understand is ahead.
After fueling, we motored to the Island of Volcano where the famous mud baths
are located. We anchored off and took the dinghy in to shore. For a cost of
two euros, one could bathe in a small lake of volcanic mud. It was bubbling and
rolling, buy barely a yard deep. Eileen, Julie and I all took the plunge, and
Dick took pictures. It was tepid and mildly radioactive and smelled terrible,
like sulfur. It is supposed to cure arthritis, infertility and other maladies,
There were about a dozen other people in the ooz with us, and a television crew
was taking pictures as well. Afterwards, we walked to the ocean where hot water
bubbles up warming the sea as waves break over the rocks. Here everyone rinses
off. Back on Tapestry we took a shower and noticed that everything goes away
but the smell, which is reported to linger as long as a month.
This afternoon at around four, Julie and I dinghied into town and hiked up
Volcano, a "sleeping" volcano from which the island gets its name.
The temperature was about 90 as we began our ascent of the steep loose gravel
path. It was a difficult walk. There was little wind and sulfur fumes wafted
our way occasionally. One is warned not to get too close to the fumaroles where
the gases spew from the mountain. They are said to be intoxicating and searing
hot. After a forty minute walk we reached the edge of the crater. It was
believed by early Christians that the mud floor of this crater is the anti-room
to hell. That seems a reasonable conclusion to me as well. The area is devoid
of vegetation, hot, with no shade anywhere. Clouds of sulfur rise from the rim,
which is stained with yellow and green from the mineral deposits. Contrasted
with the stark mountain, the green island spreads our before us, nestled in the
clear blue Mediterranean. At the top there is a white marker with the words
"Peace on Earth" written in four languages.
The descent was much quicker as we were spurred on by a cool drink upon our
return. It was called "grampie" and is made with fresh fruit. It is
an island specialty. This evening, Tapestry rocks gently at the base of the
mountain. Tomorrow we will get an early start for mainland Sicily where we will
stage for the straits of Messina.
We have truly enjoyed these Aeolian Islands. They are diverse and interesting.
To think that they have been inhabited for twelve thousand years is astounding.
All the best, Hank and Julie