Good morning from Tapestry, Sunday, May 21, 2006
Our run from Amalfi to Palimuro was again over calm seas. We carried the main,
but motored most of the way. A large high pressure system over the Med
continues to bring us fair weather and sunny skies. We were looking forward to
Cape Palimuro because as far as we knew there was nothing there. In fact, the
Cape is a huge, rugged rock of many colors. There are several crumbling
fortresses on top. Thousands of swallows nest in its crags and crannies and sea
gulls swirl about the cliffs. As soon as we arrived we launched the dinghy to
explore. We saw a dive boat with folks in wet suits heading toward the rock
and we were right behind them. The most interesting part to us who are not
divers were the grottos or caves just at sea level. In one we were able to take
the dinghy perhaps fifty yards inside. There, in the almost total darkness, the
water is illuminated by a bluish glow as sunlight from some opening on the
opposite side finds its way in to illuminate the water. It was eerie and
beautiful. The cave walls were filled with lichen of reds and golds and a
bright red starfish clung to the rock at the entrance. There was another dark
cave at the rear of this one, but prudence dictated we not venture further,
especially without a light.
Back aboard Tapestry we watched several teenage boys on the beach practice
their football skills using the porch of a shuttered cottage as a goal. They
were only fifty yards or so away from our anchored boat and provided good
entertainment before dinner. The next morning it was another six a.m. start for
Cape Boaifacio, 45 miles to the south. Winds were better and we sailed a bit,
but motored most of the way. Here a marina under construction provided shelter,
but we anchored outside. It was 90F. in the pilothouse so we donned our suits
and lowered ourselves into the water. Swimming was ok on top but diving just
deep enough to check out the prop and zincs, reminded us it is still May. After
a drink aboard with the Bishops, we headed for town. Traditional fare in
restaurants here begins with Antipasta, which may be fish or meat, or salad, followed by pasta,
obviously pasta and fish or meat, followed by a secgundo (spelling approximate)
which is a main course of meat or fish, followed by a dolce, rich and delicious
dessert, followed by coffee. If that sounds like a lot, it is. We opted to
walk about half a mile up the coast to a hotel that had fresh pizza.
At 0600 this morning we headed for Stromboli. This is an island sometimes
knows as the oldest lighthouse in the world. It is an active volcano. It
erupts regularly and is visible for miles at sea. We have been told that the
waters around the island are very acidic and will clean out heat exchangers on
marine engines and polish bronze propellers. They say it tingles when you swim.
We will see. We understand that the population of Stromboli was about 1500
until the eruption of 1930. Only about 400 people live there now.
Stromboli is part of the Aeolian Triangle. If you remember your Odyssey, you
remember that Odysseus was given a bag of contrary winds when he sailed here and
his curious crew opened it. Big mistake, another delay on the way back to
Ithaca. Aeolus, of course, is the Greek god of wind.
Now the "triangle" part. Obviously, this is a reference to the
Bermuda Triangle. There are stories of "storms from nowhere" and
un-forecasted storms, which break anchor chains on yachts, sink boats and in
other ways wreak havoc with sailors. It is the stuff of which novels and epics
are made.
If you look on a map, you will see that Stromboli is not far from Sicily and
the Straits of Messina, which separate mainland Italy from Sicily. We will
visit Sicily and then traverse the strait. Hopefully the high pressure that is
over us now will hang around for a while.
We are at 0830 Italian Daylight Savings Time; 38.6 nautical miles from
Stromboli.
All the best, Hank and Julie