Friday, May 19, 2006
Hi from Tapestry,
Yesterday it was Capri. Julie and I got up early and walked to town, she for
her run and me for my walk and pictures. In down town Amalfi there were donkies
with metal boxes on their backs walking beside street sweepers and people were
busy getting ready for another day. On her run, Julie found the home of Henric
Ibsen and the place where the magnetic compass was invented. In town Fresh
white linen tablecloths were spread on roadside tables. What a pretty place.
We had our coffee/latte and pastry and headed back to the boat for a shower. By
9:30 we were on the ferry to Capri.
Eileen had read that because Capri is so expensive it is cheaper to moor at
Amalfi and take a ferry than to take the boat to Capri. As it turned out, the
price was about the same. People are often disappointed in Capri because it is
so crowded. That is certainly so. There were tour guides giving out tickets to
their clients on the pier. Old people were pushing and shoving as if they might
not make it on the ferry at all. They didn't seem to be having a very good
time.
When we got there we took the "cog railway" up to Capri Town
on the top. The railway is actually a cable car. Signs in five languages
mentioned that you could purchase either a paper ticket or a card, good for many
trips. If you bought the card, there was a deposit required. Of course, the
signs were wrong. Paper tickets were not available and the ticket vendor felt
it was his duty to argue with everyone who asked for a paper ticket. The line
was long and slow. Once we got to the top, however, things improved. We took a
narrow street that wound around in front of lovely homes perched on the
hillside. The view over the cliffs was spectacular. The island is limestone
instead of volcanic and its steep sides are truly awe inspiring. There was a
concrete bench beside the road and we had a picnic. Eileen had some cheese and
olives. We brought a bottle of wine, some apples and oranges, and we enjoyed an
hour or so of peace and quiet in this delightful spot. We were shaded by large
pines and cooled by the breeze from the Med. It was very nice.
Later we window shopped and walked on to a natural bridge on the farther side
of the island. Finally, we went to a little restaurant for a six dollar Coke.
Capri is amazing in its beauty and diversity. One can purchase a 2 euro tee
shirt or a 320 euro top in stores that are practically adjacent. Of course all
the famous names are represented there. The shops are beautifully decoratred
and a joy in themselves. The ferry ride home was less crowded and pleasant in
the continuing good weather.
Back in Amalfi we found Annelo, the man who sold us the slip three days
before. He was sure the price he had quoted us "in the heat of the
moment" was far too low, but as long as we promised not to tell anyone,
especially the people on the other boat, he would accept what we had agreed
upon. I paid, got a receipt and a hand shake, and this morning at 6 we dropped
our lines and motored out of the harbor with the fleet of local fishing boats.
We are currently off point Licosa, on the way to Cape Palimuro, where, as far
as I know there is nothing of note to do or see. Triumph motors along ahead of
us. Winds are about 8 knots, pretty much on the nose, so we continue to power
with the main up, hoping for a shift. All the best, Hank and Julie