Early the next morning we raised anchor at Ponza and motored to Ischia.
Again, the setting was spectacular. We dropped the anchor in about 20 feet,
right behind a rocky cliff with a beautiful villa atop it. Interestingly, there
was a cross and a tower of some kind there as well, right above the boat.
Emperor Agustus traded Capri for Ischia, because of the hot springs there and
their healing powers. Both Islands are beautiful, but the Isle of Capri has
gotten the publicity and most of the tourists.
Ashore, we found an upscale community with lovely shops selling everything from
linens to jewelry, as well as fine clothing. The shops were colorful and a
delight. As we walked the streets that evening, there were men selling colorful
balloons and people were obviously more well dressed than for the regular
Tuesday evening.
Sure enough, there was some kind of festival going on. Several priests and a
number of lay persons had formed a parade commemorating, we believe, a rite of
the coming of spring. There were flags at the head of the procession and
priests chanted as the people in the procession responded. I thought it was a
rather weak response on the part of the local populace, but no one seemed to
mind and in a minute or two the procession had passed and that was it;
We found a restaurant that served pizza, but, due to the procession and all, it
wasn't open yet. But the owners came right after the ceremony and lit the wood
fire under the pizza oven and by 7: 30 they were ready to take our order. Of
course, we were the only ones eating at that early hour. We were back on the
boat by dark and early the next morning Julie and I got up and by 7 were back
in town. Julie took her run, and I went on a photographic expedition.
We had chocolate and cream filled pastries and latte in a little
tratatoria on the water and then returned to the boat by 9. By 9:30, along with
the Bishops in Triumph, we had raised anchor and headed for the Amalfi Coast.
The wind came up, it was favorable, and we found ourselves bounding along
through building seas as we passed the Isle of Capri and headed up the famous
Amalfi Coast. Towns and villages are perched on the sides of incredibly steep
cliffs here and rise dramatically over the sparkling Mediterranean. The water
is crystal clear and clouds pass below the green volcanic peaks that jut
skyward. It is miles of beautiful sailing.
As we turned into the harbor, we were met by a well tanned young man in an
inflatable boat. He motored up to us and welcomed us in English and asked us if
we wanted to find an excellent place to keep the boat for the night. As we had
read the guide book, we knew that there was a public pier at Amalfi, and that it
was reasonable in price. I asked him if he was the harbor master and he said he
was. We entered the harbor and headed for the public pier when the young man
doffed his straw hat, revealing a lock of golden hair, and explained that we
should procede to his marina. When I refused and headed for the public pier, he
became agitated. With that an older man rode his bicycle onto the pier and
signaled us in. He began shouting at he man in the inflatable boat who in turn
began shouting back at him. This was not an idle shouting match. Fists were
raised, voices screamed, and faces turned white. I expected homicide. But the
argument stopped as soon and as quickly as it had started.
We tied to the public pier where the "dockmaster" thanked us and
apologized over and over for the shouting match. He helped us tie up and
assured us that we had made the right decision. Meanwhile, our "buddy
boat" Triumph, decided to head for the marina.
"Please, don't discuss the rate with your friend" said the
dockmaster. I give you good price, but it is between us."
So how do I know if it is a good price or not, I wonder, if I don't find out
what other people are spending? But those are the rules.
Julie and I go for a walk along the streets of Amalfi. There is a
wedding in the church. The streets are thick with tourists; people are walking,
eating, drinking wine and beer, and filing in and out of shops. It is a
beautiful evening. The town is colorful and lovely as it rises above us.
Back aboard, Julie cooked delicious pork chops for supper.
Afterwards we went out for ice cream. On our way we were met by the dockmaster
who had a bottle of red wine for us as part of his apology for raising such a
fuss. We still don't know for sure what we will pay, but no doubt we are being
buttered up for something. That's Italian! Tomorrow, Pompeii.