July 22
Hi from Tapestry in Calvi,
We sailed (motored into light wind) to Calvi on the north west coast of
Corsica. The mountains on the north of the island are some 3000 metres high
and
have snow on them. The scenery is spectacular, right down to the water.
Sometimes range after range of mountains disappear into the haze as we look
shoreward. It is really beautiful.
Haze is the key word here. It is hot and humid. The barometer is down and
the weather forecast mentions 7's and 8's, not good. Calvi has moorings, a safe
place to be in a gale. Calvi is interesting in that it is at just 42 degrees
of
North Latitude, the same as Dunkirk. The old city is surrounded by a wall and
perched on top of a hill. It is picturesque to view from the sea. Lord Nelson
lost his eye trying to take Calvi, and they say Christopher Columbus was born
here. (They say Christopher Columbus was born and buried in many places!) Calvi
is the home of the French Foreign Legion. Their recruiting office is here. It
is interesting that the Foreign Legion takes only non-French nationals. It asks
no questions about the past of its recruits, and after five years of service
issues them a French passport with any name they chose. Thus, past
indiscretions are forgiven for five years of very rigorous military service.
The only requirement to join is that one pass a demanding physical.
The city is largely tourist oriented with lovely shops set into the ancient
city. There are many restaurants and ice cream shops. It is interesting that
there is an absolute tourist staple in Europe. It is pizza. Everywhere we have
been there is at least one restaurant calling itself a pizzaria (or pizzateria),
often with a wood fired oven, and pizza is almost always on the menu of all
but
the most expensive restaurants. It is ok, too, thin crust with familiar
toppings. Fresh fruits and vegetables are delicious here, as is meat, chicken
and fish. The French love good food. The wine is something else. It is cheap
and, even to this inexperienced pallet, far superior to that in Spain or Italy.
We paid about 6 euros for three bottles today. It was all good wine.
When we returned to the boat last night the wind was rising, as forecast. It
was cloudy and during dinner it began to rain. The rain would come in short
bursts, as though it really wanted to rain, but just couldn't. There was
lightning in the distance, even a rumble of thunder. I stuck my head out at
one
point and was amazed to find that the wind was hot. The storm was coming from
the south east, right out of the Sahara Desert. Wind barely exceeded 20 knots
so
sleeping was easy. This morning, the boat was covered with red mud. Although
rain is infrequent in summer, when it rains even here, as in Spain, it rains
red
mud.
This morning we went to town early and caught a diesel tram to L'lle Rousse,
a
little town down the coast. The tram was noisy and hot. Diesel smoke blew in
the windows and it went just a little faster than one might think safe. As
unlikely as it seems, I was sure the driver was shifting gears. The ride took
about a half hour and carried us along the coast. The wind was really whipping
and the sea was bright with white caps. After we arrived, we walked through
town and sat in a shady square for coffee. It was a dirt floor with tables set
up under huge old shade trees. People were visiting and reading and laughing
and
the atmosphere was wonderful for conversation. Later, we bought cheese and wine
and bread and sausage and enjoyed a picnic in the same park. Real wine glasses
were cheaper than paper cups so we went first class. By then there was a group
playing music in the park. The six of us had a wonderful lunch. We walked the
beach, enjoyed the scenery, and by three had ridden the tram back to Calvi and
were back aboard the boats. Winds gusted to 35 as we snaked back and fourth
on
our moorings. Suddenly we noticed smoke in the air and before long those
familiar twin engine sea planes were scooping up sea water and dumping it on
several fires that had sprung up suddenly. There were three planes this time;
serious business.
Tonight the wind has calmed. The moon is full and the harbor peaceful, with
the town in the distance. Tomorrow we plan to be here again for another high
wind warning. By Thursday we will again venture east across the top of Corsica.
All the best, Hank and Julie on Tapestry