July 15
After getting off to a wonderful start in Bonifacio our first
day, things seemed
to be even better the second. We took the dinghy and explored the harbor
entrance. There are gun implacements in the chalk cliffs and even the old
winches used to hoist submarine nets and cables in WW II. Best of all, however
are the grottos. These caves at the water's edge are nearly 100 feet deep. We
motored into one in the dinghy. It was a huge room with a perpetually dripping
ceiling. It had been carved right out of the chalk cliffs. It is fascinating
to see these cliffs. They are hundreds of feet high and very undermined by the
action of the waves on the soft chalk walls. One can see where they have been
eroded and have fallen in over the centuries. Yet, the French have built large
buildings with restaurants and apartments on the outer edges of these cliffs,
overhanging the water. That takes a kind of faith not present in this
Anglo-Swede!
When we got back to the boat later in the afternoon, we saw that a hit and run
driver had struck Tapestry on the 1/4 inch thick head window, which was smashed
in. We questioned people around us, but no one said they saw anything. Dick
and I closed the hole securely with a nice piece of plywood from his ship's
stores. It will be fine for the rest of the summer, or until we can get a
replacement from Nauticat. We really appreciated Dick's help.
Bonafacio was truly a special place. Like Odysseus, we probably should have
anchored near the entrance rather than way in the harbor.
Today we shopped and then left at around 11 to sail 20 miles to Campo Muro,
a
little cove on the western shore of Corsica. The wind was about 10 and right
on
the nose. We sailed, but had to tack against current, and the day was long.
We
didn't arrive here till after six. This is the "high season" and the
harbor was full of everything from campers to small megayachts. As all the best
spots were taken, we had to anchor in 9 M., about 30 feet. Pulling the anchor
tomoorrow will certainly be a job! Tomorrow it's off to Sanguine, near
Napoleon's birthplace. Our best from Tapestry, rolling gently under a half
moon, on a warm mid-July evening on Corsica.
Hank and Julie