5/07/05

THE DANIELSON'S VOYAGE

The drive from Englewood to Tampa was uneventful (Thank you Philip), the
flight from Tampa to Atlanta was bumpy, but no big deal, the flight from Atlanta
to Madrid was silk smooth, we snoozed through the night. From there on, things
got interesting!
The first thing we did in Madrid was to make reservations on the
"Ave," the high speed train from Madrid to Seville. The ticket lady
spoke clear English and was sure that we would have no trouble getting from the
airport to the train station on the metro in the hour and a half before
departure. Off we went, heavy rolling bags in tow. The subways in Madrid are
fast and efficient. Julie realized right away that we would have to make four
train changes along the way! We went up and down escalators, and through long
corridors. My "rolling duffel" with the computer mounted on the top
had a habit of rolling over if I walked too fast or, bumped along on uneven
pavement. Right away we realized time was of the essence! We bumped up and
down stairways and finally arrived at the "Ave" station, one minute
late. Too bad. I then had to find the station master's office and renew our
tickets for an hour later. Renewing the tickets cost the same as a taxi would
have. Hmmm.
The ride to Seville on the high speed train was delightful. We snoozed again
and found we had an hour to rest before the bus left for Rota. In Rota, Julie
thought it would be a good idea, since we were near there anyway, to contact the
Guarda de Civil to remove Tapestry from Bond. We dragged our luggage into the
police station and sat by as two officers in green uniforms worked to officially
un-bond our boat on the computer. The .45's on their hips were impressive, but
these men were helpful and cooperative, though they spoke no English. When the
job was done they said they would meet us in half an hour at the boat to
officially remove the bond. As there were no taxis in sight, our luggage
clicked and bounced and rolled along as we raced across town to get to the boat
in time. They beat us, but just barely. We got the boat unsealed. The bottom
had been painted as promised. Everything looked good. Dick and Eileen Bishop
had a hot meal waiting for us aboard Triumph, and we collapsed into the Vee
berth on their lovely boat. Relief.
Next morning we found Javier at the boatyard and asked him to replace a
frozen thru hull. Once he had removed the old one, I walked to the office to
check on launch times. We could either launch in one hour or on the 9th of May.
The "Festival of the Horse" was the following week and the yard would
be closed. Panic! I raced to the yard to tell Javier, but he was off looking
for parts. Dick and Eileen came along to help us replace zincs and tend to the
launch. Javier returned with the needed materials and was applying bedding
compound just as the travelift approached to carry us to the water. Whew! We
made it. Who would have believed that less than 18 hours after our arrival in
Rota, our boat would be in the water with the engine running! Life is good. We
will be here for about a week until the tide is right for us to make the passage
through the Straights of Gibraltar. The weather is 70's daytime and 50's at
night.
Steve and Judy, from Seattle, arrived yesterday. Their boat Sugalite got our
treatment, too. One hour or the tenth of May. Six of us sliced off an old
cover, replaced zincs and drain pulgs, loaded luggage, and splashed a 36 foot
Hallberg Rassy in 60 minutes. Perhaps these Spaniards understand how to take
siestas and get their work done too! We had six for dinner on Tapestry tonight.
Fresh Tuna. The wind is gusting near 30 from the east. Next time: "The
Festival of the Horse!" Hank and Julie

Hi from Tapestry on 5/3,
We have been busy on Tapestry setting sails, checking engines, electronics,
installing replacement parts and generally getting ready for the sea. After
all, on Wednesday, we will be heading for the Straits of Gibraltar, one of the
more challenging places in the world. In days of old, it was "The Pillars
of Hercules." Currents are strong there and winds tend to come up to gale
force very rapidly. It has always been a challenge to sailors. Today those
challenges are compounded by numerous legal and charted tuna nets along with
illegal and uncharted ones. They are big enough to "catch" our boat,
and cause great inconvenience if we get tangled up in one. At the same time,
30,000 ships a year pass through the straits. They travel at speeds of around
25 knots, a real concern for a boat our size. So, Wednesday will be "pay
attention time" for us. We have been busy shopping and filling tanks and
generally getting ready.
Sunday, however, we took a little time off to visit "The Festival of the
Horse". It was a major holiday in Spain. Everything was closed for it.
We took a bus to the venue, which was a kind of fairgrounds outside of town.
There was one wide paved street with colored lights overhead, a midway with
whirling and spinning rides, including a merry go round with live miniature
horses. Tent bars and restaurants lined the main thoroughfare and other roads,
most of which were dirt. But there were no cowboys here. The Cabelleros, who
handled the horses, were dressed in tight fitting dark suits with white shirt
and small tie. They wore a flat brimmed hat and dress shoes. They would run
beside their horses as they performed. Mares and stallions pranced in the ring
and along the streets with untethered colts prancing behind. There was a
constant parade of well dressed men riding beautiful mounts, sometimes with a
woman in floor length dress riding sidesaddle behind. Carriages pulled by
matching teams of finely groomed horses were everywhere. The six of us got a
ten minuet ride for about 25 dollars. Everyone was dressed the the nines!
Little girls of, two to three wore full skirts and clomped about in heels.
Other women from five up wore full length tight fitting dresses with ruffles
from the knees down. It was really quite a fashion show, and very colorful. We
had a small meal of fried anchovies and green peppers with sangria. There was
Flaminco dancing on the stage in front of us and awards were presented to the
best dancers. Sometimes women at nearby tables would dance with their daughters
or friends. It was very much a family affair and the atmosphere was light and
fun. It was a statement of style. The Spanish love to dress up, and the
Festival provided them with a good opportunity. Everyone seemed to be having a
wonderful time. We rode the bus back to town and found a little Italian
restaurant for dinner. We thought about a pizza (hold the anchovies and green
peppers!) The owner, an American, came out and apologized. He was all out of
food. He couldn't even make us a pizza! Oh, well, back to the boat. Hasta
luego. Hank and Julie

Hi from the Rock,
Few things go quite as planned, especially on sailboats. We rose before
light on Wednesday morning and found lots of little details to attend to before
the crack of dawn at about seven. For the first time in the week we had spent
at Rota, there was no wind. We motored all day, and what little current there
was, seemed to be against us. By three, it was clear that we weren't going to
make it before dark. "Dixi" had stopped for lunch, not wanting to
motor the whole way, and we pulled into a little cove along the Spanish coast
and anchored in 12 feet of water over sand. Ironically, no sooner did we have
the anchor set than the wind piped up to around 20 knots. The two Nauticats,
Tapestry and Triumph, rolled in the swell, but we were well protected from the
breeze and enjoyed a beautiful view. Sand dunes stretched over a nearby hill to
form a magnificent beach, backed by other rolling hills covered with large trees
and a pine forest. There was a small town and several ruins to add interest.
Fishing boats were pulled up on the beach, people picnicked on the sand and
several braved the cool afternoon air for a swim. Julie sketched it. We all
enjoyed the scene.
Over night the boat rolled and pitched in the swell, we added a second blanket
to the bed, and by seven we rose to dark skies, splashing rain on the windshield
and low foggy clouds in the hills. By nine we had raised anchor and were again
motoring East. Again, there was little wind, but the clouds had broken up by
the time we reached Tarifa, and the rock at Gibraltar, wearing a white cap of
clouds, shone as it came into view. By 2 in the afternoon, we had anchored,
still in Spain, but with a beautiful view of Gibraltar and the town beneath it.
We elected to stay aboard and relax, saving customs and further adventures for
tomorrow.
In the evening Chris from "Dixie" came over for a visit in his
dinghy. They had arrived shortly after we did and are anchored on the Gibraltar
side of things. Steve and Jan on Sugalite are still awaiting warranty work in
Port of America, Cadiz. This morning is is again gray and threatening with
winds touching 20 knots. Patches of blue sky hold promise for a better
afternoon, as Tapestry swings back and fourth, pulling on an anchor (we hope) is
buried deep in Spanish Gibraltar's sand.

Hank and Julie

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